Saturday, June 13

Out of the Dark

It seems like nearly everyone I've spoke with experienced some darkness over the last couple weeks or so. In addition to the losses I have explained on previous posts, I've been fighting a hell of a cold and was quite out of it all week. 

Happily, I'm emerging, and so is the illusive sunshine here in the front range. I've been busy climbing and also working, putting into use the typical 'JSTAR carries on with life regardless of heavy symptoms' attitude for which my girlfriend is very critical. It's hard for me to slow down and rest, even when I feel sick. My Dad even said the other day that he thinks my body purposefully allows sickness here and there so that I am forced to rest. Is it such a bad thing that I love the sensation of trying hard! and the momentum I've gathered recently in climbing feels empowering, albeit fragile, as always..

I did nudge my momentum a bit recently also. I spent some more time down at the Primo Wall, which over the last month has evolved from a cliff I would previously raise my noise to, to now being my summer hang out spot. Not for long though. It seems all good cliffs finally get climbed out, and I'm just about there. Recently I did a link up called 'Grim Aura' 13d. Normally I am not inspired by link ups, but I heard this one was worthy of effort... Lets just say that I'm super glad I sent second go because, in my opinion, the line does not merit much more action than a couple burns. Not to mention that if you're short (or even if not) this climb will have you calling the massage therapist for deep shoulder repair faster than you can say 'grim shoulder pain'. 

Climbing this route did inspire me to take a burn on 'Shine' 14a, however. Shine does share some of the grim shoulder pain, but then goes straight up the wall into an incredibly thin and improbable series of crimps and holds that don't really exist. On my first burn I tried to find some sneaky short person beta, but eventually took the advice of my buddy Scott Hahn and just stuck to what works. I gave my friend Ben two belays on his project, 'River Run' (shit yeah Ben! way to clean it up), and took some time to rest and review the many moves on Shine. Second burn I laced up my Solutions, ran through the cruxes once more in my head and gave 'er hell. Literally. It was not pretty, my beta was all over the place, I was yelling, grabbing the wrong holds here and there.. BUT!! I sent!! shit show and all. 

If the temps remain mellow I will probably head back and attempt the proud, 'Primetime to Shine' 14b link up, which would combine my favorite sections of each climb. Otherwise I would like to change focus to some new-routing and maybe some boulder-climbing too. 

Next week will be a lot of work for me seeing that we are beginning the BRC remodel. This will be some good cross training before I head back to the wild country (Wyoming) with my Dad and good friends for a week.. with high hopes of success..

I hope everyone else is finding some light after a dark few weeks as well. Stay tuned.. 
photo: Mia Rosingana at the amazing Monestary.