Monday, November 26

Mission Complete

Nothing quite like dangling on the wall and tip toeing around on the Captain to get you stoked to sport climb and get pumped again. I developed a surge of motivation during my weeks in Yosemite, and since I've been back around Colorado the last week, I've been essentially going non-stop - training, setting routes and getting out as well. I was actually planning to rest all of December... which gradually turned to 2 weeks rest... then 5 days rest. In the end, I rested 2 WHOLE DAYS! Earlier this fall, I felt like I needed rest because I was kinda burning out, feeling like the intense summer traveling schedule had worn me out, and feeling like I could use a longer period of chill time (something I never, ever do)- but instead, my motivation just kept creeping up and so I figured I'll just run with it.

Whenever I'm around Boulder for a longer stretch of time (which is becoming less and less frequent) I try and get into the Boulder Rock Club and set some routes. I worked as a route setter all through college, and I've developed a real love for it. Another thing I did through college was basically live at the BRC - working, training, hanging out. I still very much feel at home there and it's been cool to get back in the scene. 
standard unpacking mess pitcure
Thanksgiving at the Siegrist house!
In more exciting news, I did a really cool route yesterday. A route that I tried once back in April before I took off for France. It was bolted by Jay Samuelson a few years back, he named it 'Mission Impossible'. A few people had told me about the project over the last 2 years, but I was always traveling too much to have a chance to really try it. When I finally got around to sampling the route earlier this year I was pretty stoked on it - and excited to check it out again when I had the opportunity. Daniel Woods was just getting back into the sport game and ended up taking it down a few weeks later.

Mission Impossible is a pretty cool line, and a unique style. There are two obvious boulder problems separated by a good rest. The lower boulder problem is very tensiony and sustained on a mix of bad sloping holds and some crimps with generally poor feet. A solid rest breaks up the climb, before the upper boulder which is defined by a strenuous undercling move, some bad feet and a finishing sequence with a gnarly razorblade edge and a mega high heel hook / lock-off to a crimp. The route is not easy to suss out and the style is such that you're kind of always on edge. 

Mission Impossible on the left, Interstellar Overdrive on the right - two kick ass Clear Creek routes. 
Thanks for the cold belays dad!
Grades seem to be a huge topic these days, so I suppose I will give my 2 cents to the cyberworld. Daniel originally suggested this route was 14d or maybe potential 15a. Which, of course is super intimidating, but I remembered being able to do nearly all of the moves and even some links in my one session back in April so I decided to give it another try. After checking out the video on DPM, it seems our beta was almost identical. I had pretty awesome conditions - which I know Daniel struggled with, and I also think this route suited me very well. It's for sure a burly climb, however, compared to classic front range test-pieces like 'Vogue' and 'Grand Ol Opry' (both 14b - be it old school, hard ass 14b) it's tough for me to suggest this route is too much harder. So I suppose it's 14c? or wicked hard burly Colorado 14b? Whatever, who really cares? It's a cool route, and a great addition to the front range on Jay and Daniel's part. Nice work fellas! A route like this - so accessible and fun to climb on - I'm sure it will draw the attention of many local hardmen and women. Just like Daniel suggested back in April - leave it to more repeaters to cast their vote. 

If you are going to be around the Boulder area later in December, come out and support myself and Andy Mann at the Boulder Rock Club on Dec 20 at 7:30. We're showing a handful of slides and our film on the Verdon, 'Viva La Vie'. It'll be free, and Arc'Teryx and Maxim Ropes have both contributed to a killer raffle to benefit the Access Fund. THERE WILL BE BEER

Lastly, if you need to kill some time, I took a series of candid videos of our days and nights in Yosemite over the season for exclusive for La Sportiva. It's primarily ridiculousness so don't expect too much climbing action - but there are a few good laughs to be had for sure, and some insights into wall life. Check them out here:

No comments:

Post a Comment

jstar salutes your comments! remember: profanity is the tool of the inarticulate