Thursday, August 29

jstar @ 28

New routing is definitely my favorite part of climbing, and one of my most inspiring outlets in life, period. Rapping over virgin terrain - uncertain what you may find - connecting the dots, touching holds. I feel myself holding in my breath, gitty with excitement and anticipation... what could be there? what's not there? It doesn't always pan out, but when it does, it can be magic. Finding the line, brushing holds, imagining the sequence, the feet, the holds. Chalking, ticking, scrubbing - then sometimes only days or even hours later, climbing through this terrain - and perhaps even clipping chains.

On Tuesday I turned 28 years old. Hard to believe that I'm actually in my late 20's. When I was a teenager I thought I would be an old fart by now. Settling down perhaps. If I've learned anything from the climbing community it's that my definition of 'old' is consistently being re-envisioned. It's almost like you're only as old as you believe you are - or more so - you turn old the day you really believe that you're old. That could be 28, or it could be 54, or... maybe we'll never be.. 'old'. The point is that in many ways I feel more freedom, opportunity and inspiration than I ever have.. and that's how I would define youth. I got so many sweet birthday wishes on the 27th - here's me saying thank you, and toasting to another lap around the sun. Thanks everyone!

The other side to that story is that I finished an incredible route on my birthday. A route that, to me, epitomizes that feeling I was just writing about. The discovery, the process, the magic. I called the route 'Vesper' and it's another incredible 5.14 at one of my favorite zones - The Fins. I've got a bunch more lined up, so I'm really hopeful that this will be a fruitful trip. Wish me luck!

As far as the last couple weeks is concerned... it was a quick trip to Colorado. I spent most of my time catching my breath (hardly), hiking up to the Diamond with Tommy and actually (believe it or not) doing some bouldering the Park. It was rad climbing and enjoying the park, but in the end both of my goals were just barely cut short because I was preparing for this trip I'm on now. Tommy and another good buddy Joe Mills sent the incredible Diamond project - hell yeah guys!! A route that I'll most definitely be returning to. I got to spend time with some good friends and my family, and catch up briefly before hitting the road. Now I'm on a full hearted mission to make some stuff happen at the Fins and over in Wyoming before heading back to the Valley for the Dawn Wall Project. Onward!

look closely.. 
Hope everyone is enjoying the last few days of August and prepared for Sendtember!!! I'll let you guys know how progress is going out here...

Oh and lastly, I want to give a huge thankyou to everyone that pitched in for my birthday campaign with the AccessFund. We raised over a thousand dollars! I really appreciate everyone's help and I know that it will go to good use!!!


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