I'm always on the road, meeting amazing characters and legendary climbers - I wanted to have the opportunity to sit down and ask a few questions with some of these people. This Five Questions page is just that: five questions about whatever comes to mind with some of the raddest people in the community. Look here for a new interview every few weeks.
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
status: professor of philosophy UNLV, beast-mode training fanatic, over-the-hill honemaster
I started hearing Bill Ramsey's name on my first trip to the Red River Gorge. Do the routes 'Transworld Depravity', 'Omaha Beach', 'The Return of Darth Moll' or 'Golden Boy' ring a bell? Unquestionably some of the Red's most classic routes (and that's saying something), these are all thanks to Ramsey. These days his contributions mostly come in the form of his teaching, another one of his passions, and one that he happily sets aside a few days a week for.
Bill is not afraid to speak his mind, but despite his no-bullshit attitude he remains a kind and refreshing friend to many. He out-trains most avid climbers half his age-- and it shows-- still putting down 5.14 from over-the-hill. He knows a thing or two about climbing and I always find our conversations fascinating. Bill's philosophical mind regularly carries over into our discussions about climbing, life, and otherwise.
How long have you been climbing? How and where were you introduced to the pursuit?
I started in 1976, so I’ve been climbing for about 36 years. I did my first climb with my Dad at Smith, who also was an early pioneer there. Then, I started climbing at Smith with my best friend in high school, Alan Watts who later helped invent sport climbing as we know it today. I focused on academics for the latter part of the 80s, but got back into it in the mid-90s.
You're openly passionate about both your work, as well as your life as an avid climber. How have these two pursuits complimented each other? (Or have they?)
They complement one another nicely. First, the process of working on a philosophy problem is similar to working on a boulder problem or route. You try different things to see what works, you think about it at odd times, you try to break a difficult section into more manageable sub-sections, and so on. It is no accident that a lot of climbers tend to be analytic thinkers – engineers, mathematicians, physicists and such. People who like solving intellectual problems. Second, I find it hard to do either one exclusively. When I am just climbing, like on a trip, I often get really bored. Similarly, when I’m focused just on academics I really miss getting outside and doing something physical. I think trying to be an academic and an athlete provides a pretty good balance in life.
You're in your early 50's and you're still crushing. What advice would you give to climbers in my generation who are psyched to climb for another 20, 30 years?
Besides all the usual advice about diet, stretching, warming up properly and so on, here is something young people always need to learn: you need to know when to let go. Trying hard is important, of course, but you also need to be aware of when things don’t feel right and hanging on isn’t worth it. At the same time, don’t over-respect minor injuries – low-level aches and strains are just part of being a serious athlete. And don’t be afraid to periodically take significant amounts of time off. You can’t go hard all the time and last for decades. Sometimes climbers are forced to take months off because of an injury, and then they come back stronger than ever. That’s not because the injury made them stronger, it’s because they needed the break more than they realized. And perhaps most important, learn how to get gratification from other aspects of climbing besides getting up a hard route.
There are quite a few Ramsey routes peppered across the country-- do any of your first ascents stand out to you as favorites?
Historically, being involved in the first free ascent of Monkey Face in 1979 was significant not just because it is such a classic formation but also because it helped set the stage for the sport climbing revolution to come. But I also like my contributions in the Madness cave at the Red, like Omaha Beach and Transworld Depravity. Those routes turned out to be so classic; it is extremely gratifying to read online comments from great climbers from around the world who have really enjoyed them.
A lot has changed in climbing in the past few decades. What's the future of climbing in your opinion? How do you see the sport changing and growing over the next decade?
Climbers are going to continue to evolve when it comes to training, especially as they do more training at an earlier age. But I think there will eventually, down the road, be some leveling off of bouldering grades due to human physiology, so the main progress will be acquiring the ability to do multiple hard boulder problems on a route. With regard to that, I think someone will come along who really wants to be a game-changer, who really pushes the standards. Think of Wolfgang Gullich – he wasn’t content to be the top climber in the world; he wanted to do something 2 letter grades beyond, something that 20 years later is still one of the hardest routes in the world. He altered our conception of strength, training and commitment to do that. Right now it seems relatively few top climbers fully commit themselves to find their limit – their hardest climbs only involve a few days of effort. Sharma is an obvious exception. But imagine Ondra, or someone at that level, spending 6 or 7 months on a single project for which he or she spent a year of specific training. I predict that’s how the next progression will happen.
More generally, I think the sport will continue to grow, and more climbers will be able to make money doing it. But I also hope it retains its status as something outside of the mainstream. Climbers have never been cool in the “X-Game sense”, and I don’t think they should try to be. We are more like smart dorks who found a sport that works for them.
I often think about the difference between being a 'good' climber and/or being a 'strong' climber-- developing technique, your mental approach and your understanding of the rock vs. developing pure strength. Do you have any thoughts about these two different skill sets and how you have improved (or not) in each realm over the course of your life as a climber?
I remember discussing this once with someone who noted that it is easy to display good technique when you are really, really strong. Relatively speaking, I’m not that strong and my technique is nothing special, even though I’ve managed to improve both with time. I’m better at finding efficient sequences that work for me and I’m pretty damn tenacious. It’s remarkable how much you can get you up with just those traits.
February 2012
_______________________________________________________________________
 |
| DANLUBBERS.com |
Joe Haynes
(aka Kentucky Joe)
status: pioneer, fearless, father, student
I first met Joe as many have; randomly, in rural Kentucky. He was brandishing a couple firearms and warmly greeting my good friend Keith Ladzinski. I had heard a long list of Kentucky Joe's misadventures-- it's likely that you have too, and maybe don't even know it-- but I never knew if I would ever actually met the guy, and certainly I had no idea what to expect. He's something of a legend in the Red River Gorge, if for nothing more than his strong, energetic presence, his unbelievable stories and shockingly endless knowledge on... you name it. He brings a unique kind of bare bones, redneck wisdom to any conversation, and he's liable to bring an arsenal of weapons to any adventure. Many are likely turned away by his tough character and at times abrasive attitude, but anyone who's spent a lot of time with Kentucky Joe knows that he's a damn good guy.
How were you first introduced to climbing? What is your favorite / proudest climbing achievement over the years?
I first started climbing in the Pyrenees mountains in France. I was doing a training cycle with the French Legion. My proudest achievement in climbing. I bolted a place called the wedge cave in Nevada. It's about 55 degrees over-hung and the routes are about 90 feet long. It will become du rigueur.
I started climbing late in the game and could never chase the numbers like kids these days. I see myself more as a facilitator. A cheer leader of sorts, if you will.
You've been a staple in the Red River Gorge community for many years, through ups and downs. What kind of changes have you noticed over the years?
The biggest thing I notice is that the kids are getting way stronger and that people are starting to realize what a jewel the Red is and what it can become.
Did you ever imagine 15 years ago that the Red would become the international destination that it has?
After sampling climbing around the country its easy to see that the potential in the Red is greater than any other place I've visited.
I really think that the climbing potential in the red hasn't been fully realized. I would like to see a large resident climbing community with all of the accoutrements that go along with. Land is cheap. The climbing season is longer if you get past the arbitrary restauraunt closing. Ten years from now with the proper nudging to get the community past some access issues. We should be in full effect.
I really think that the climbing potential in the red hasn't been fully realized. I would like to see a large resident climbing community with all of the accoutrements that go along with. Land is cheap. The climbing season is longer if you get past the arbitrary restauraunt closing. Ten years from now with the proper nudging to get the community past some access issues. We should be in full effect.
You know the local community, land owners and the reality of the situation likely better than anyone in Kentucky. As the impact of climbing and the number of climbers grow, how can we work to benefit the area?
Just spending dollars in the area is of crucial benefit. The counties that the Red encompasses have a historically high 30% unemployment rate, even in the best of times. Lee county was recently studied and found to be the 4th worst county in the nation to raise a child. The things that make Mexico a great place to live also make eastern Kentucky a great place. Corruption, Drugs, lack of education, lack of infrastructure. So all of the messed up things that can happen to you in Mexico can also happen to you here. When you see a kid from here, realize that they have about the same chance of growing up impoverished, uneducated with a high chance of teen pregnancy as a kid growing up in Bangladesh. The biggest thing I think for the kids is that they don't even realize where they live.
Now-a-days you're attending College, tearing up gnarly 4-wheel trails, hunting and taking care of your family. Where do you see yourself in 5 years?
In five years I see myself getting my masters in engineering. Planning a expedition to Baffin.
Get a sample of what a Kentucky Joe story looks like- here at the Rock & Ice webpage.
December 2011
________________________________________________________________________
Scott Milton
website: www.arcteryx.com
sponsors: Arcteryx, FiveTen, Maxim Ropes, Clif Bar, Flashed
status: climbing veteran, videographer, home owner
I first met Scott in the fall of 2009 at the Red RIver Gorge - It's always awesome to meet someone that you've read, heard and seemingly 'know' so much about, only to discover that they are indeed kick-ass people. One could not rightfully mention the history of climbing in North America (and the world for that matter) without noting Canadian powerhouse Scott Milton. He's been climbing around the world since I was an infant. Best of all, he's a cynically cheerful guy who's not afraid to tell it how it is and share a few laughs at any opportunity. It's been a real pleasure getting to know Scott and I've been picking his brain for beta, history, opinions and Canadianisms for some time now. I really enjoyed reading this interview.
Your first climb was in Eldorado State Park (or was it estes?) . Let's hear about it...
Well, it was in Eldo and it wasn’t my first climb (maybe my 4th outside), but it was my first lead ever. I had just started climbing and met some people at the University of Calgary climbing wall (most people think I am from Alberta, but I only lived there for 3 years. It is where I discovered climbing though, and most of my best friends/partners live in that area. I returned to the Rockies to climb most summers ). Anyway, I had taken an outdoor climbing course and learned the basics of rock climbing and had a VERY rudimentary understanding of how to place widgets, but had never actually led or placed any gear on a route. A couple guys I met at the gym were heading down to Colorado and they generously invited me to join them. For the record: I never misrepresented myself and told them I was an experienced climber, they just knew me from the gym and assumed that I knew what I was doing since I climbed pretty well (for the era: mid-1988) top-roping on the concrete walls of the University gym. In my defense, they never asked if I knew how to lead or place gear.
So, day one of the roadtrip was in Eldorado Canyon. We got to the base of a wall that had me pissing in my cotton sweatpants and my buddy asks me: “Do you want the first lead?”
I thought about it for a few seconds and then said to myself: “Fuck it, you gotta learn to lead sometime”, and then I told my buddy: “Sure, I’ll take it.” He then handed me a rack of shit that was mostly alien to me and I started up the airy 3-pitch “Rosy Crucifixion (5.10-)”. The massive exposure of the first pitch had me puckered and over-gripping so badly that when I got to the end of the pitch I was so viciously pumped that I could not operate my hands at all and I literally couldn’t squeeze hard enough to open my locking biner to clip the anchor! For sure the most pumped I’ve ever been in my life! I had to shake out for about 2 minutes before I got that fricken biner opened and clipped into the anchor. At the top of the final pitch my buddy informed me, with an annoyed looking twitch in his eye: “Your gear has a nasty habit of falling out.” I was deliriously freaked out and jacked by climbing outside; I was hooked.
I figure that if you can survive your first couple years of climbing you’ll probably be okay for the long run.
In many ways you came up in climbing at the perfect time. You took part in developing some of the world's best areas (Hueco, Rocklands, plus Acephale, Ha Long Bay..etc) with legends like Todd Skinner and Fred Nicole. At what point during all of your exploration and discovery do you remember being the most psyched?
I don’t know if there really is a “perfect time” to be a climber that develops new areas; are you suggesting that I’ve already found all the good stuff on the planet? Christ, I hope not! I was, and still am, motivated by finding new areas, routes and boulders. I get the most psyched when I see potential, something that no one else has ever seen with a climber’s eye.
Todd Skinner was a huge influence in my climbing life, and we both really enjoyed finding new things. I think Todd may have liked discovering new climbing areas more than actually climbing on them. That may sound weird for a guy who put up more routes around the planet than most people will climb in a lifetime, but the magic of that moment when he first laid eyes upon something great was more special to him than climbing a route on it. Yeah, Todd and I had good run of finding new places, but he was the Master, with a capital M. To be honest, his death has effected me in many, many ways and it just isn’t the same without him.
I still climb with Fred Nicole, and we are both more reserved about how we promote climbing areas these days. Sometimes it’s nice to have a place to yourselves for a while.
But I think I know what you’re getting at with this question. I’m not one of those climbers who gets super animated and makes loud personal declarations of how much I love climbing and how I am going to climb everything in sight. Climbing is more of a personal journey for me, I internalize my thoughts and psych. I think the fact that I have climbed full-time for 18 years should be demonstrative enough to show how much I dig climbing. I’m more of a “shut up and climb” climber. That’s why I suck at blogging and facebook posts (and interviews), I absolutely don’t care if other people know what I am climbing, I do it for myself. Always have, always will. But I had to sell my soul a little bit over the years to keep my sponsors happy.
You and Sandra Studer successfully lived out of a motor home for ten years (That's proud!). How was being a nomad enabling or debilitating to you life, and your life as a climber?
10- years? What do you take me for Chumpy, a lightweight? Sandra and I lived on the road full-time for about 16 years. We’ve lived in several cars over the years, lots of rentals too. In Europe we lived in a Renault Traffic (the French version of a Sprinter Van) for about 4 years, then we moved to North America and bought a VW Van that we converted into a camping rig. Lived in the VW for a couple years and then upgraded to a nice camperized Chevy van, but after one year in that we said screw it and bought a motorhome and a dirt bike. Best decision I’ve ever made. We could go climbing on cold and crappy days knowing that we didn’t have to come back to a soggy tent- we came home and turned on the furnace, had a hot shower and baked pizza and cookies for dinner. When it was hot we had ice cold beer and ice cream. An apartment on wheels.
Being a nomad is a big part of what makes me psyched to climb. I get bored in one place and need new stimuli to keep me interested. I climb my best when I am traveling for a while, and that has to do with my mind set, not the amount I am climbing. I can’t dabble at something, I need to do it 100% or not at all. I need that kind of focus to feel right in the universe. Unfortunately, I’ve got this bad finger injury at the moment that has forced me to be a bit of a dabbler lately and it really weighs heavy on my spirit.
You've climbed everywhere. Seriously, it's crazy - what are a couple of your favorite areas and are there any crags you've not yet checked out that you'd be keen to visit?
Haha, I’ve climbed in areas you‘ll never see or hear about!!! (Top Secret Swiss stuff) I’ve even put up routes I can’t find anymore...
Yes, the list of places I have yet to tick is shorter than most people’s, but I don’t feel like I’ve seen it all. I want to explore China more; I’ve been there a couple of times, but the country is riddled with rock and I think it might be holding some of the best hidden gems on the planet. Of course the scene in Spain is exploding and I haven’t seen all the new places yet...
If I was making a list of places for people to go enjoy climbing for the rock and the culture, this is what I would suggest (in no order of preference):
- Kalymnos, Greece- quite possibly the most recreational climbing area I’ve been to. Easy living in hotels just below massive caves, routes of all grades, good food and beaches. It should be on every sport climbers tick list.
- Cipo, Brazil- a small, but surprisingly good limestone area in the hills 8-hours north of Rio. Chill setting (especially compared to the mayhem of Rio) and sweet rock.
- Rocklands, South Africa- getting more developed, but still miles of potential. Africa is a total experience: some of the best rock on the planet (maybe the best), unique wildlife, and (depending on where you are in the country) a small chance of something going horribly wrong to keep it spicy.
How has climbing changed for the better (or worse) in the last 20 years? Are the kids getting soft?!
Better or worse? It is all good as long as we are progressing. Sure, I’m happier at the crag if it isn’t busy, but if I like the climbing at that crag then who am I to bitch that other people are digging it too? It is rad to see the sport continue to inspire people to go beyond where we are today. Every new generation pushes beyond the current limit; It proves that what we think we are today is no where near our real potential.
Are the kids getting soft? Is that some dig at me? Are you calling me a sandbagger?
I don’t think the kids are getting soft, there are so many crushers out there right now it is getting interesting. The only thing that is getting soft are the grades in some places. Holiday grades are stupid- grades should be consistent across the board. Be honest people. Keep them honest Jstar, don’t give anything away!
August 2011
___________________________________________________________________
Dan Morris
website: www.danmorris.com
status: Pro Photographer, Commercial Music Producer, Renaissance climber
I met Dan through his brother, Josh Morris, who operates Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Adventures - a guiding company, training facility, and adventure headquarters for caving and climbing in Northern Thailand. Dan's been around the photo scene for over a decade, and he's had a handful thrills on many continents - he tells a mean story and is always good for a laugh. I've always been very impressed with Dan's abilities as a portrait photographer but his expertise is wide-spread. I had a chance to sit down with Dan recently in his home town of Salt Lake and ask him a few questions about his work and life.
Now-a-days you're doing all kinds of photography; corporate, portraits and adventure. When and where was your beginning in the industry?
I was headed to Madagascar to do biological research for my Princeton thesis. I wanted to learn how to take photos on the trip, so I enrolled in a photography class. I studied with Emmet Gowin, one of the greatest American photographers; he's in any 20th century photography book. After college in 1996, I moved to Japan to teach English. I took a lot of climbing photos across Asia during that year. I got my first big job shooting for the Mild Seven Outdoor Quest in '97(an adventure race) in Hong Kong. Cigarette advertising! I began by working for a big ad agency. Time magazine got my name and asked me to shoot for them and it all ballooned from there. I ended up staying in Hong Kong for a year, keeping my interest in Climbing photography although it seemed that the money was in other places.
You've traveled and lived throughout Asia, tell me about a specific adventure that stands out to you...
I planned a trip to Tibet in Spring 1998 but there was a crazy once in a lifetime snow storm that pretty much shut down the country. I bailed on that plan and went to Laos instead. After wandering Laos for a month, I found these awesome crags near Luang Phrabang. Back in Hong Kong, I hooked up with a Dutch marking company that was managing Millet and Mammut in Asia. They took interest. I ended up putting together a sponsored expedition to Laos in '99. We developed the first routes in the country (around 21 routes I think). It was an incredible experience. We stayed in a small fishing village out in the middle of nowhere. We had a bit of an international crew that included Jose Pereyra, Will Hair, Tamotsu Sugino and Yuka Endo. We were big news in Laos. We had hill tribes coming down to check us out, and were on national news, in newspapers etc… We had to construct a fence around our camp to keep people at a distance so we could do things as simple as changing our clothes! We were provided two AK-47 toting guards to watch our stuff for us while we were climbing. They had us drinking rice liquor every night. It was a pretty wild experience.
What is your favorite climbing photo that you've taken?
Probably a photo of Dale Bard. Maybe it's because I was just starting out and I was psyched that Black Diamond was interested. We ran up to LCC on the spur of the moment and wound up with a great image. Dale was climbing 'Gordons Hangover' 5.9+ in LLC, ripped as ever.
Can you think of climbing photographers that you've admired over the years, and perhaps an image that stands out to you?
I used to read all of the magazines, and I knew a number of the photographers back in the day like Bobby Model, Jim Thornburg and Greg Epperson. I don’t read the mags so much anymore, but I would definitely say that there are a lot of good photographers out there right now. I really like Andrew Burr, Andy Mann and Keith Ladzinski. As far as a single photo that sticks out, I remember a Mammut Ad with Alain Robert climbing in the Verdon. He was on an 8a/+. He’s just started his fall, some 5-6 pitches off the deck with 10 meters between him and the last bolt. I like photos that capture excitement like that.
What's your favorite form of photography?
Documentary. It’s probably the form I practice the least. That’s one thing I admired about my friend the late Bobby Model. He started out in climbing photography but began focusing on more documentary work. He did some incredible work in his career. I think documentary is the most intellectual form of photography and it really speaks to me. Every time I see something happening in Libya or elsewhere in the Middle East a part of me just wants to jump on a plane and put on a flak jacket...
