GEAR REVIEW

ARC'TERYX KAPPA HOODY
I've wanted to get my hands on a Kappa for a while, and as soon as I saw the redesigned version for 2012, I went for it. For a few years now, I've been using the Arc'Teryx Fission AR as my primary belay parka and loving it-- but it lacks a few of the features I really wanted for a belay specific insulated jacket. This is where the Kappa comes in. The Kappa features a beefy, two way zipper and a button closure at the waist-- perfect for retaining full coverage and still being able to access your belay loop. It also has a fully insulated and super adjustable hood to go over a helmet or a mid layer hood. The sizing on the Kappa runs a big... I can easily fit the size small Kappa over a base layer and a lofty mid-layer (even another insulating layer like an Atom). I see this parka as the perfect toss on and off belay jacket fortress, that will fit over your other layers, provide heavy wind protection light rain protection on cold days at the crag.

The Kappa is built with a durable Windstopper outer layer and thick Core Loft insulation - the same insulation used on the Atom series, but with a heavier fill.

 The hood, shoulders and elbows are made with a thicker fabric and so far have thwarted sharp limestone and heinous prickly desert plants no problem. The coat feels sturdy when you wear it.

Here you see the two-way zipper and the button closure at the waist - crucial for any kick ass belay parka. 

I also really like the over sized interior mesh pockets-- great for warming up your climbing shoes or stashing gloves, hats, or food. 

This parka will put up with a beating. It's really well designed as a belay / climbing piece and so far after vigorous daily use I have no complaints... but I should warn you - I'm a bright color fanatic (the brighter the better) but I will admit that my Blaze colored Kappa immediately showed filth, especially around the waist from belaying with a dirty rope (of course it can be washed). Next go around I would order it in a darker color for sure though.

Check out the newly redesigned Kappa, and the rest of the insulated line at Arc'Teryx.com 

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MAXIM AIRLINER 9.1

The long awaited return of Maxim's skinny rope! There's a good reason why this incredible cord has been praised by Maxim Pro's for years- it offers the type of extreme durability that you would expect from a larger Maxim rope, but with superior packability and much lower weight. I've been using one now for almost a year and it's still kicking ass! Many people have shied away from skinny ropes in the past for fear of reduced safety and durability, but with modern belay devices (especially the Gri Gri 2) and Maxim's rope manufacturing technology, there is certainly nothing to fear. I've used a wide array of skinnys over the last five years and I can say that unquestionably the Airliner is my top choice, in-fact, I'd go so far as to say that this is my single favorite rope I've ever used.

Brand New Airliner on the left, well loved Airliner on the right... 

I put a beating on my ropes and usually expect to run through even the most sturdy of cords within a few months to half a year max. This Airliner has been catching my falls for nearly a year now and while it does certainly show wear it's still handling surprisingly well and shows no signs of sheath damage or significant softening.

At the clipping zone... essentially zero softening.

One of the things I love about Maxim Ropes (including the Airliner) is that they have low static and dynamic elongation without sacrificing too much impact force. Ever get tired of pulling up your rope to get back on route, then letting go and sinking down ten more feet? Or how about top-roping a route and falling at the second or third bolt only to drop to the ground-- even with a tight belay. The Airliner is not nearly this stretchy (no bungie cord), and yet still gives a soft catch.

You'll no doubt notice the low weight of the Airliner (at 53 grams/meter) right away, but once you see how well it packs down you'll be even more psyched. The difference between a 9.8 and a 9.1 in the bottom of my pack is significant-- I always have quite a bit more room when I pack the Airliner.

There is a time and a place for a fatter rope, but the Airliner is my go-to cord. I've noticed no difference in wear time between my Airliner 9.1 and my Pinnacle 9.5 or Glider 9.9, and while these larger ropes do show higher fall ratings (UIAA 7 and 7) the Airliner (at 6 falls) seems every bit as burly after over 100 days out redpointing, working routes, onsighting and even top-roping. That being said, do keep in mind that I am a small person, and typically so are my climbing partners.

Check out the Maxim Website for more info on their awesome line of ropes, including the brand new Airliner! 

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ARC'TERYX BETA FL JACKET
For 2012, Arc'teryx introduces a new modifier to their line-- the FL series. The FL series is the ultimate combination of weather resistance and breathability, using GORE-TEX' new Active Shell textile. Arc'teryx has a wide range of different cuts to their shells (including the Alpha, Beta, Theta and others),  and over the years I've been the most satisfied with the Beta cut-- it's the shortest length of the cuts, and the most suitable for both my body size and also my activities. The Beta will fit beneath a harness, and below your pack, but also will not restrict any hip movement. I compared the fit of the Beta FL to my Beta SL and found them to be very similar, although I do prefer the more protective chin line on the FL.

I've used a wide range of GORE pieces, and I'll admit that the Beta FL is hands down the most breathable. I was very impressed with how well I was able to regulate temperature with just a fleece midlayer and the Beta. In-fact this coat breathes so well that Arc'teryx did not include pit zips (also saves on weight), and to my surprise over the course of the day I never reached for them.

The construction is suburb throughout, as to be expected. Tiny seam tape seals the interior, and the lines and stitching on the outside are beautiful. Arc'teryx added a reflective strip to each forearm, and also two on the back-- a great feature for seeing a partner ahead in the dark, or riding home in a rain storm.

The fabric around the high-wear points is reinforced for durability. The shoulders, cuffs (up to the articulated elbow), and the waist are all beefy. It has two large pockets on front, and an adjustable Storm Hood, that fits over a helmet.

Stuffed into the included stow sack, my size small weighed in at exactly 320 grams. 

A wickedly cool piece all around. This is the perfect light and fast, high output jacket that will defend against some heinous weather, and regulate your temp. That being said-- this is not an Alpha SV... you can certainly expect Arc'teryx quality and durability, but the Active Shell will not put up with the relentless abuse that the Pro Shell will. I'll let you know how mine wears over the next few months.

Check out a bunch more photos, a short video and all the tech specs here on the Arcteryx site!

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METOLIUS RECON CRASH PAD

With my first bouldering trip in almost five years on the horizon, it was time to make an upgrade to my crash pad situation. I'd been using the Metolius Bailout pad, or previous generations of it, for years. I really liked the simplicity of that pad, and it's super light weight design, but I was also psyched to get one with a little more coverage and some new features.... enter the Recon! 

The Metolius Recon Crash Pad was a perfect upgrade. It's a triple fold pad with a very narrow profile-- perfect for squeezing between trees or boulders. It features handles on both sides, and the entire pad closes up with just one unbreakable aluminum buckle. 

It has a large velcro pocket built into the fabric that folds over the top of the pad. It easily fits shoes, a chalk bag and a water bottle. I also loaded mine down with a jacket and a few other soft goods just underneath the flap without problems. 

It has a second, small velcro pocket on the front of the flap as well- great for tape, a bar, keys, etc. 

The middle of the pad features a rad little felt diamond for brushing off shoes. 

One of the coolest features.... The angle cut hinges can be secured (or not, for uneven landings). They have velcro both inside of the hinges, and a velcro flap that either prevents the hinge from being secured, or adds bomber reliability by closing up the surface of the pad-- and totally making it unfoldable (see photo below). 

 I'm super psyched about this pad-- it's a great size both folded and opened up, the materials are super burly, and it has reliable options for carrying your goods. It's also not too heavy and the support system is comfy enough to imagine trekking it in a long ways. Well done Metolius.

Go to the Metolius site to check out specifics and order one for yourself!